Getting your horse to take the bit

 

When I started my first horse from a youngster, I made the mistake of shoving the bit against his teeth to get him to open his mouth.  This was, of course, not the correct way, and only resulted in him having issues with bridling for many years.  So, here is the correct way to go about this task!

Position yourself on the left side, next to the horse's head, facing the same way the horse is. With your right hand holding the bridle, slide the bridle over his face so that you can put your hand over the poll and sort of between his ears. DON'T PUT THE BIT IN YET. Wait until your horse is calm and not tossing his head. You can put pressure on the poll with your right hand (or arm), asking him to lower his head if he raises it too high. Use your left hand to put slight pressure over his nose, about halfway between the eyes and the nostrils (where the bone and cartilage meet). The bit should be below his jaw at this point, and out of the way. Now, just wait.

Once your horse begins to relax and lower his head, position your left hand on the bit, to guide it into his mouth. You do not want the bit to clank or smack against his teeth, so go slow and take your time. You can reach into the horse's mouth and "tickle" his tongue, bars, or the roof of his mouth, until he opens his mouth for you. There are no teeth in this part of the horse's mouth, so you won't be risking any fingers. I often switch my right hand to under the horse's neck and holding the bridle by the cheek straps above his nose while I guide the bit. If your horse is not tossing his head, this position is more comfortable.

Once the bit is in, check to make sure the tongue is under the bit, and that the bit is adjusted and positioned correctly. Most horse's that toss their head have learned to avoid the pain they associate with the bit in any way they can, so check everything you can think of. The general rule of thumb is that an english bit should be adjusted to have 2-3 wrinkles, and a western bit should be adjusted to have one wrinkle in the corner's of the horse's mouth. Also, the cheek straps should not rub too close to the horse's eyes. If so, your browband may be too small. You might also want someone to help you check your horse's teeth to see if there might be any other reason the bit is bothering him.

Spend some time every time you tack up doing this ... repeatedly. Bring your horse in, put the bridle on and off a few times, then give him a treat and put him away. You can also try coating the bit with molasses and/or sugar, once you are able to get him to keep his head low for you. Often, this will help a horse associate pleasant things with the bit in his mouth, instead of pain.

Take extra care when removing the bit NOT to hit his teeth. Let the horse spit it out. He'll appreciate it, and you won't have to deal with a horse that's difficult to bridle.

Once you can get the bit in once, practice slipping it part way out of his mouth then back in repeatedly.  While doing this, the horse should keep his head down in an accessible position.

HANDY TIP:

I started wrapping the bit with one of 3 types of soft candy... either Bit O' Honey, Airheads, or Fruit Rollup / Fruit by the Foot type wraps.  It makes it much more enjoyable for the horse, and now they typical try to almost snatch the bit out of my hand! Just warm the candy in your hand then squish it around the bit.

Upcycle political signs to jump filler!

Now that the election is over, do you have some large political signs to dispose of?  Here is a handy upcycled use I found for them, which actually holds up for quite a while.

Fold into tent / coop shape, then cover with shower curtain or tablecloth.  You can screw 2x4 boards into the base if you wish to make it a little more sturdy and less likely to blow over in the wind.

Lesson Ideas cheat sheet saddle tag

I first came up with this idea after a friend told me that she used index cards on a binder ring, attached to her saddle D ring to help learn dressage tests.

I frequently find myself deciding to do ring work, only to draw a complete blank on all the lesson plans and riding exercises I just read about, not sure what exactly I should work on.  Hence, my laminated practice drills cards! This is my first draft.... I thought I could make various decks, such as "dressage lesson", "bomb-proofing", "jumping", and "ground work", and each deck could be a different color.

I also like the idea of having diagrams for set up of jumps, cavalletti, and riding figures.  Not sure how feasible this is in a size small enough to be clipped to the saddle, though. Maybe a fold-out type card would work, although that might be a little harder to laminate. I shall have to experiment a bit.

These cards are about 4" x 2". 

I currently have my basic riding set, and my groundwork set.  But really, you could make them for all sorts of different disciplines, from dressage exercises, to trick training!  Thoughts, opinions?

Keeping a black horse black

Having Friesian crosses as well as a black TN Walker at one point, I have frequently struggled with keeping their coats black and not fading out in the summer. My TN Walker would have a jet black coat when his summer or winter hair came in, but by the end of the season, he faded to almost a dun color! He was the one horse that seemed to have the most significant color change. 

Mane and Tail dye.... Bigen!

Proper nutrition: A well-balanced diet that includes plenty of nutrients such as protein, vitamins, and minerals is essential for maintaining a healthy and shiny coat. Copper deficiency can cause a coat to bleach excessively in the sun. Some coat supplements contain Paprika, which does seem to help prevent bleaching, although it will test if you show your horse.
 
Regular grooming: Grooming your horse regularly helps to distribute natural oils throughout the coat, which can help keep it shiny and healthy. Use a soft brush to remove dirt and debris, and a curry comb to remove loose hair and promote circulation.
 
Sun protection: Exposure to the sun's UV rays can cause fading and damage to your horse's coat, especially for black horses. Provide shade or use a fly sheet or UV-protective coat to help protect your horse's coat from the sun. There are also some coat sprays that contain sunscreen, which I would recommend.
 
Rinse off sweat: Sweat is very salty, which can cause further damage and bleaching to the horse's coat.  If the weather is conducive to it, hose off your horse after exercise to keep the coat free of sweat.  This will also help with flies.
 
 
Remember that each horse is unique and has different coat care requirements, so it's essential to monitor your horse's coat regularly and adjust your care routine accordingly. If you have any concerns about your horse's coat or overall health, consult with a veterinarian or equine specialist.

Both these horses below are jet black when they first change coats with the seasons.  The one on the left (since passed away), would always turn almost a light bay color by the end of summer.  My Friesian will turn reddish, as will the tips of his mane and tail, in the sun.

Updates around the farm... Foxhound Puppy!

 Well, it has been much too long since I have updates, so here we go!  My most exciting news is the addition of Bella, a foxhound puppy that I was gifted by the Marlborough Hunt Club.  She is the sweetest little thing you've ever seen, and growing like a weed! She is almost 7 months old and looks to be just about full grown.... something I am not used to!

My past few dogs were King Shepherds, and they didn't look full grown until at least a year old.  At any rate, here are a number of photos of my sweet girl for you viewing enjoyment!