Getting your horse to take the bit

 

When I started my first horse from a youngster, I made the mistake of shoving the bit against his teeth to get him to open his mouth.  This was, of course, not the correct way, and only resulted in him having issues with bridling for many years.  So, here is the correct way to go about this task!

Position yourself on the left side, next to the horse's head, facing the same way the horse is. With your right hand holding the bridle, slide the bridle over his face so that you can put your hand over the poll and sort of between his ears. DON'T PUT THE BIT IN YET. Wait until your horse is calm and not tossing his head. You can put pressure on the poll with your right hand (or arm), asking him to lower his head if he raises it too high. Use your left hand to put slight pressure over his nose, about halfway between the eyes and the nostrils (where the bone and cartilage meet). The bit should be below his jaw at this point, and out of the way. Now, just wait.

Once your horse begins to relax and lower his head, position your left hand on the bit, to guide it into his mouth. You do not want the bit to clank or smack against his teeth, so go slow and take your time. You can reach into the horse's mouth and "tickle" his tongue, bars, or the roof of his mouth, until he opens his mouth for you. There are no teeth in this part of the horse's mouth, so you won't be risking any fingers. I often switch my right hand to under the horse's neck and holding the bridle by the cheek straps above his nose while I guide the bit. If your horse is not tossing his head, this position is more comfortable.

Once the bit is in, check to make sure the tongue is under the bit, and that the bit is adjusted and positioned correctly. Most horse's that toss their head have learned to avoid the pain they associate with the bit in any way they can, so check everything you can think of. The general rule of thumb is that an english bit should be adjusted to have 2-3 wrinkles, and a western bit should be adjusted to have one wrinkle in the corner's of the horse's mouth. Also, the cheek straps should not rub too close to the horse's eyes. If so, your browband may be too small. You might also want someone to help you check your horse's teeth to see if there might be any other reason the bit is bothering him.

Spend some time every time you tack up doing this ... repeatedly. Bring your horse in, put the bridle on and off a few times, then give him a treat and put him away. You can also try coating the bit with molasses and/or sugar, once you are able to get him to keep his head low for you. Often, this will help a horse associate pleasant things with the bit in his mouth, instead of pain.

Take extra care when removing the bit NOT to hit his teeth. Let the horse spit it out. He'll appreciate it, and you won't have to deal with a horse that's difficult to bridle.

Once you can get the bit in once, practice slipping it part way out of his mouth then back in repeatedly.  While doing this, the horse should keep his head down in an accessible position.

HANDY TIP:

I started wrapping the bit with one of 3 types of soft candy... either Bit O' Honey, Airheads, or Fruit Rollup / Fruit by the Foot type wraps.  It makes it much more enjoyable for the horse, and now they typical try to almost snatch the bit out of my hand! Just warm the candy in your hand then squish it around the bit.

Upcycle political signs to jump filler!

Now that the election is over, do you have some large political signs to dispose of?  Here is a handy upcycled use I found for them, which actually holds up for quite a while.

Fold into tent / coop shape, then cover with shower curtain or tablecloth.  You can screw 2x4 boards into the base if you wish to make it a little more sturdy and less likely to blow over in the wind.

Lesson Ideas cheat sheet saddle tag

I first came up with this idea after a friend told me that she used index cards on a binder ring, attached to her saddle D ring to help learn dressage tests.

I frequently find myself deciding to do ring work, only to draw a complete blank on all the lesson plans and riding exercises I just read about, not sure what exactly I should work on.  Hence, my laminated practice drills cards! This is my first draft.... I thought I could make various decks, such as "dressage lesson", "bomb-proofing", "jumping", and "ground work", and each deck could be a different color.

I also like the idea of having diagrams for set up of jumps, cavalletti, and riding figures.  Not sure how feasible this is in a size small enough to be clipped to the saddle, though. Maybe a fold-out type card would work, although that might be a little harder to laminate. I shall have to experiment a bit.

These cards are about 4" x 2". 

I currently have my basic riding set, and my groundwork set.  But really, you could make them for all sorts of different disciplines, from dressage exercises, to trick training!  Thoughts, opinions?

Keeping a black horse black

Having Friesian crosses as well as a black TN Walker at one point, I have frequently struggled with keeping their coats black and not fading out in the summer. My TN Walker would have a jet black coat when his summer or winter hair came in, but by the end of the season, he faded to almost a dun color! He was the one horse that seemed to have the most significant color change. 

Mane and Tail dye.... Bigen!

Proper nutrition: A well-balanced diet that includes plenty of nutrients such as protein, vitamins, and minerals is essential for maintaining a healthy and shiny coat. Copper deficiency can cause a coat to bleach excessively in the sun. Some coat supplements contain Paprika, which does seem to help prevent bleaching, although it will test if you show your horse.
 
Regular grooming: Grooming your horse regularly helps to distribute natural oils throughout the coat, which can help keep it shiny and healthy. Use a soft brush to remove dirt and debris, and a curry comb to remove loose hair and promote circulation.
 
Sun protection: Exposure to the sun's UV rays can cause fading and damage to your horse's coat, especially for black horses. Provide shade or use a fly sheet or UV-protective coat to help protect your horse's coat from the sun. There are also some coat sprays that contain sunscreen, which I would recommend.
 
Rinse off sweat: Sweat is very salty, which can cause further damage and bleaching to the horse's coat.  If the weather is conducive to it, hose off your horse after exercise to keep the coat free of sweat.  This will also help with flies.
 
 
Remember that each horse is unique and has different coat care requirements, so it's essential to monitor your horse's coat regularly and adjust your care routine accordingly. If you have any concerns about your horse's coat or overall health, consult with a veterinarian or equine specialist.

Both these horses below are jet black when they first change coats with the seasons.  The one on the left (since passed away), would always turn almost a light bay color by the end of summer.  My Friesian will turn reddish, as will the tips of his mane and tail, in the sun.

Updates around the farm... Foxhound Puppy!

 Well, it has been much too long since I have updates, so here we go!  My most exciting news is the addition of Bella, a foxhound puppy that I was gifted by the Marlborough Hunt Club.  She is the sweetest little thing you've ever seen, and growing like a weed! She is almost 7 months old and looks to be just about full grown.... something I am not used to!

My past few dogs were King Shepherds, and they didn't look full grown until at least a year old.  At any rate, here are a number of photos of my sweet girl for you viewing enjoyment!

Christmas with the kitties

This will be our first Christmas with Kali (aka "Demon Baby"), whom we rescued from the cold last January when she was around 6 weeks old.  She has come by her nickname due to her penchant for getting into all sorts of trouble and trying to start fights with Orenji at every opportunity.

So far she has managed to stay out of the Christmas tree for the most part, but we shall see how long that lasts!

Trail riding video of Una on Atticus with the pups

 

Photo artwork and digital paintings

 Here are some of my recent creations… they are a combination of digital art and photos I've taken.

Atticus headshot

The back pasture, with Spring evening sun rays.

 Judge (29 yr. old retired police horse) and his

   girlfriend Cookie trotting in the pasture.

Latent Learning and giving the horse time to process

 

Have you ever had a situation similar to the following happen to you?

You decide you are going to teach your young horse to ground drive.  He has never done this before, but he is accustomed to ropes around his feet and legs, so he doesn't mind that touch.  He does seem a bit confused at you walking behind him and turning him with the long lines, but after a short session, he seems to roughly get the hang of it, and there was no resistance, so you decide that's a good start and leave it.

You get busy with other horses and other things, and don't get to another ground driving lesson for a week.  When you attach the long lines for the second lesson, suddenly the horse seems like a pro!  He turns smoothly, can do serpentines, and even halts squarely and quietly at a light touch.  You are dumbfounded.... was someone secretly working with your horse that you weren't aware of?! Did he just regain memories of a past life as a cart horse?

I had this exact situation happen to me.  Similar ones as well when teaching a horse a new concept.  I finally decided that horses take a much longer time to "digest" new information, and their timeline is completely different from ours when it comes to learning and assimilating new knowledge.

Then I heard of the concept of "latent learning" in a podcast on clicker training horses. So when teaching a horse something completely new, such as a brand new trick, or a flying lead change, or the turn on the forehand, you will achieve much more if you give your horse breaks of a few days between lessons,  instead of practicing daily. 

Most horses trained once or twice a week for a short period learn more between sessions than those taught every day in long lessons. 

The horse's brain needs time to process and absorb what it was shown. Then it needs to put that information into the long-term storage section of the brain, where it is archived and can be quickly retrieved by the horse when needed.

On the other hand, humans usually learn in one hour classroom blocks, so we expect to move at a much faster pace than the horse.  

On her page, professional horst trainer Stacy Westfall says:

"I love to work with horses that I call ‘next day learners’ or horses that the next day come out and have really absorbed the lesson that was taught the day before. They may not be experts but they seem to have thought about what went on and they are applying the concepts at least."

Slow down!  

Think of a horse's timeline of stretching out much longer than your own.  I have had a lot of success teaching a horse to pick up a leg on cue (a light tap with the whip) by asking once at the start of our grooming session, then a second time when I am all tacked up and ready to head to the mounting block.  Upon finishing our ride, the horse would frequently offer to pick up a leg while untacking and brushing out. It's almost as if the horse had been ruminating on the task over the course of our ride, and decided to show me he's figured it out!

So try not to repeatedly drill new tasks with your horse.... give him time to "digest" the lesson and his learning pace will actually increase. 

Jump Panel and Décor Ideas

 So I am always looking for novel ideas to make new horse jumps, or to dress up plain old logs in the woods.  Here are a few that I have made, as well as ideas I have for others.

Ideas for jump panels:

These PVC or vinyl panels are available at places such as Walmart, Home Depot, and Lowes.  They came up in a search for "decor screen", so hard to say how sturdy they are, but they look like they would be super easy to attach to a long board plank to act as a wider plank or a filler:

They also come in a couple different colors, although generally that is limited to shades of brown, black, and white.

Along those lines, another search for "decorative panel" came up with these that look a bit sturdier (or at least I am more confident they would stand up to outdoor use:

*Other ideas:  Woven willow / branch filler

Faux ivy / hedge fence panels

Becoming a Bombproof Rider

 I recently started reading a book about bombproofing your horse, and as I was reminded of the psychology of it, I had an epiphany; I could apply the same ideas to make myself a braver rider.

Basically, in working on de-spooking or bomb proofing your horse, you are gradually making them confront a scary thing, first from a safe distance, then gradually increasing the pressure until it's no big deal.

So it occurred to me, if I am worried about my horse spooking, or even trying to turn and bolt on me, I need to set up a situation where my horse is nervous, but I can handle it and bring him back under control.

Riding in the Rain with Magnum (2009)

Just stumbled across this old post, and thought I'd repost it for the memories!

(Originally published  Oct. 19,2009)

Yeah, this weather is really crummy!  I must say, I was very proud of myself for venturing out riding yesterday. 

 

The vet came out and looked at Magnum... she did flexion tests, felt his legs, watched him on the lunge, etc. and said she doesn't think it's arthritis.  He trotted out sound after the flexions, and she said that should have shown something if it was.  After watching him a bit, she did notice how he at times seemed stiff behind and took short steps, but she thinks it's more muscle development, and he's being protective of himself because he's worried about slipping.  She had him stand square and looked at him behind, and then showed me, and it's clear that aside from lacking muscle along the top of his hindquarters, his right hind is much more underdeveloped in a couple places.  She agreed it was probably from the EPM, that he permanently lost some muscle and it will just take more work to get it back.  I asked about the possibility of steroids to help with the development, and she said we could try it down the road if a conditioning program isn't sufficient, but it can make a horse really aggressive.

 

I had Magnum and Teddy in the front field while waiting for the vet, and Teddy was clearly wanting to play, running around and bucking, and then closely examining each part of Magnum that the vet had just checked. (She'd feel his stifle, Teddy would look at her then closely sniff Magnum's stifle, she'd poke around his pasterns, Teddy would sniff his pasterns, etc.  I had to keep shooing him away).  So I decided I'd bring Teddy along when I took Magnum for a ride up and down the power lines. Since it was a rainy Friday, I didn't think we'd come across too many other people.

 

I ponied Teddy until we were across the stream (he likes to walk with his head glued to Magnum's butt, so it wasn't difficult).  Then I took off the lead rope and let him run along.  Occasionally he'd take a parallel trail, but then he'd always cut across to come back behind us.  It was really funny when we got to the open field.  Teddy first trotted over to examine the orange traffic cone in the field, then turned and galloped all around, bucking and kicking.  Zoey would chase him for a bit, then he'd chase her.  It was like having 2 dogs out.  If he started to run too far off, I'd call him and he'd come right back.

I think he got a lot more exercise than Magnum, because he chose to run and buck so much.  I thought it would also be a good way for him to learn to navigate different terrain without a rider.  The only problem was when we turned to come back.  Teddy decided to take the lead, and thought he knew the way home, so went galloping full speed up over the hill toward the traffic circle, whinnying the whole time.  Magnum got VERY upset at that... he bucked a few times because he wanted to go with Teddy, then pranced the rest of the way with his head straight up.  He called to Teddy a few times, but no response. 

 

Turns out, Teddy thought he knew the way back but got lost... he was over by the pavilion, galloping back and forth along the wood line, trying to find the trail.  So when we came up over the hill, he saw Magnum and came straight back to us, with his head at Magnum's butt as usual.  I thought he might have learned his lesson about running off, but once we got down to the main open field, he figured NOW he knew the way back and took off again.  Unfortunately, this time he followed the road up to the playground area.  (So much for horses having great sense of direction).  So we walked up there, and he was again galloping along the wood line, whinnying and trying to find the trail.  Magnum and I just stood there until Teddy saw we weren't going to follow him and came dejectedly back to us.  Then he obediently followed the rest of the way home.  I think he was quite tired by then... he hasn't had that kind of a workout before.  It was a fun experiment.  I'd like to do it again, but a weekend probably isn't the best time.

How to train for a steady, confident horse on the trail.

This is all advice by Cheri Wolfe, given on her website, WolfeRanch.com.  I have edited the original a bit, but this is pretty close to her post.

These tips not only make a horse more confident, but they should also make the rider more confident as well.

1. The main thing you are looking for from your horse is OBEDIENCE. Quick and full response to your aids and requests without a fuss.  If you say walk on, the horse does so promptly and without argument. Same with stop, turn here, etc.

2. Your horse doesn't get to look at every new or different thing and decide if it's okay.  YOU decide if it's okay, and if so, the horse needs to trust you, and not his natural instincts to bolt and run from any potential threat. As the leader, what you say goes.  A foal will follow it's mother across a raging river because he trusts her. If you tell your horse that flapping tarp is OK, then he must trust you and have no more questions about it.

3. If you get in the habit of "showing" a horse everything he is fearful of, they get into the habit of stopping to check out anything new or strange.  Not acceptable if you are galloping a cross country course, or trying to get to a stuck cow. The habit you DO want to reinforce is to go past, over, or through anything that you  ask him to.

4.  The horse either has to become the leader and figure out everything for himself, or he has to let you be the leader. I believe I am smarter when it comes to identifying actual dancer, know where I am going and what I want to do, and he doesn't get to have an opinion about it. Nervous, spooky, 'refusing' horses are most of all 'worried'. As a prey animal, they are supposed to be worried about them and the horses behind them when they are the leader. When YOU are the leader, they are not worried about anything, and are much happier and calmer.

Tips for how to accomplish this while riding:

1. Look out past or beyond the scary obstacle. Ride with the resolve of a person on a mission who needs to get somewhere quickly. This subconsciously makes you more assertive, and the horse reads this as confidence. Don't look down at your horse, look at the place you are going! If you look for spooky stuff, you will certainly find it!

2. Don't ride straight toward a scary thing you can go around or past. (e.g., recently on a trail ride, there was a bright shiny Mylar balloon on the trail. I managed to get around it by deviating into the woods a bit to add a little more distance).  As you pass the scary thing, bend the horse's head away from it and shoulder towards it.  Once past, reverse direction TOWARD the object (don't turn tail to something scary, that is retreat), and pass it again in a shoulder-in same as before (head away, shoulder towards thing). Repeat until there is no tension.

3. If the horse isn't trained enough to know how to leg yield, another option is to ride "hard and fast"... at least, go faster (trot rather than walk), cover more ground, go over rough ground, distract the horse with more pressure. Use tools to get the horse's attention back on his job and on you.  Focus on where you are going, not the object. Ideally, if time allows, you should then repeatedly pass the object until the horse thinks nothing of it. (Hence why you should never be in a hurry when riding... training issues need to be dealt with and not put off).

4. Before hitting the trail, make sure you have control of your horse's feet and good forward impulsion. When you ask a horse to walk on, it should be a bold, working walk.  If not, make him halt and ask him again to walk on, using crop of a strong thump of your legs if need be to get a good forward walk. Ask him to yield his head to both sides, and practice the one rein stop.

5. Never accept less than full obedience.  Finish what you start. If your horse decides it is not going to cross the stream and stalls out, threatens to rear, starts backing up, keeps whirling, etc., you have to MAKE him do it. If you can't ride him across at first, lead or ground drive him, then ride him.  Use crop or spurs if necessary, but he cannot be allowed to win the battle.  If he does, he will try that much harder the next time he doesn't want to do something, and you quickly have a dangerous horse on your hands.

You become a confident rider when you have full control. Control comes from being an "In Charge" leader.

Benefits of Long Reining or Ground Driving Horses

 It can be called Ground Driving, Long-Reining, or Long Lining.  What it is, is basically driving a horse with two long lines while you are walking on the ground.  Sort of like lunging, only with a second line.  It's benefits are numerous! Long lining builds top-line muscles, and teaches softness in the bridle and self-carriage.  

You can see ground driving depicted in old horse training manuscripts and artwork as it was sometimes used in classical training (or high school dressage, such as that practiced by the Spanish Riding School in Vienna, or the Cadre noir of Saumur in France).

One of the things I have noticed in long lining Atticus, is the ease with which I can ask for shoulder-in and half-pass along the fence line.  As I am not always correctly balanced, and definitely stronger on one side than the other when it comes to using the proper aids, I frequently worry that I may be confusing him or inadvertently giving conflicting cues.  I don't have to worry about this with the long lines.

Additionally, I find it's a great way to work on an issue that I would not be comfortable riding the horse through. Here is a short video of driving him away from "home" (the tacking / untacking spot) when he decided he was done working and the ditch made a handy excuse for him to refuse.

Whenever he tried to spin away from the ditch, I would turn him again to face it and encourage him to go forward.  If he was at least facing the right direction, I would verbally encourage him.  After a number of refusals, he realizes it's easier to go over than to continue refusing.  It's the same principle under saddle... take the pressure off if the horse is doing the right thing (or even just THINKING the right thing, as in facing the ditch without backing or turning away).

I find that having this ability to reinforce your requests without danger works really well for under saddle behavior.

Stall bedding methods

 Deep Litter Method, or "Lazy Man's Way"

This involves starting with a whole lot of shavings, picking out the obvious manure, and adding more fresh bedding on top.  It is what I prefer in my outdoor run-ins, as it builds up a decomposing base layer which helps to lift the floor level above any dampness and also adds warmth in the winter.  I actually start with a layer of woodchips, and add sawdust on top.  In the winter, I usually add chopped straw, as it really helps to insulate and keep them warm.

Usually the whole shebang is cleaned out completely once a year or so, which can be a massive job.  Although I have seen this method used where the base layer decomposes at a rate that keeps the level of bedding pretty much even.... again, usually outside, and with few horses.

One big drawback to this method is the buildup of ammonia fumes, especially in a closed up area such as a barn. (Another reason it works better for outdoor runs).  You also have to be sure to add enough fresh bedding on top to lift them away from any dampness and bacteria.  Because manure gets mixed in with the shavings, it can cause issues with thrush and similar infections.

PROS: 

• Once established, quick and easy
• Can provide extra cushioning
• Provides warmth in winter from decomposition

CONS: 

• Very labor-intensive when complete cleaning becomes necessary
• Can cause buildup of ammonia fumes and breathing problems
• Can exacerbate thrush or fungal issues

Stall Mats + Very Light Sawdust

This method relies on the stall mats to provide cushioning, and just uses a dusting of sawdust or shavings to absorb urine and manure spots.  It makes the stalls very easy to clean, but you must make sure there is sufficient cushioning under the mats so it is comfortable for the horse to lay down.

Types of Bedding Material

In my area, the options are pretty much baled straw, chopped straw, shavings, sawdust, and pelleted bedding. Here is my experience with the various types:

Baled straw: 

Cheap, fluffs nicely to provide good insulation.  However, it is an absolute bear to muck out!  All the long fibers mat together, creating a very heavy mess.  Additionally, for some reason soiled staw bedding stinks much more than the other types.... I have only noticed this when mucking out, not when walking into the stable.

Chopped straw: 

Very easy to handle and spread, insulates, keeps coats very clean.  The biggest downside is that horses may eat it, and eating too much can lead to impaction colic.  But this stuff makes a soft, fluffy bed that I wouldn't mind sleeping on myself!

Shavings: 

Light and fluffy, the wood shavings are larger than sawdust, and can be had usually in cedar or pine.  Cedar smells nice and helps repel insects.  However, this stuff sticks to everything, and you will find it a bit itchy when it works it's way under your bra.  Can be hard to separate out when cleaning, so you do wind up throwing out some clean shavings with the dirty bedding.

Sawdust: 

Easy to clean out and separate the dirty stuff.  You do need a lot of it to provide sufficient cushion, as it tends to pack down easily.  It is also prone to becoming dusty, which can be a big problem with a horse that has any sort of breathing problems, such as Heaves.

Pelleted wood:  

I love this stuff!  You have to soak the pellets before spreading it, and at that point it crumbles into sawdust.  Due to the soaking step, it is less likely to be dusty, and it's an absolute dream to much out... sort of like cleaning a litter box, the poop clumps stick together, the pee spots are easy to see.  It's also very easy to store, as you can stack the bags anywhere.  If it does get wet, it expands inside the bag and tends to burst it, but I have just raked that stuff up and spread it... it doesn't go bad like wet feed would.

Interesting New Horse Products

I am always curious to see what new inventions clever people have come up with to solve various horse / riding / farm problems.  Heck, for that matter, I also like to look up old patents to see what sorts of clever ideas people had a couple hundred years ago.

At any rate, I recently came across this website. They have a couple products that I found interesting and may want to try.  The first being, these Velcro gloves and reins combo.  I have sometimes found myself with wet or sweaty hands and reins, and feel like I am trying to hold onto a pair of eels.  Royal pain in the butt!  Anyway, this is what the product looks like:

Thoughts?  I will update this post as I come across more fun stuff!

Puff Pastry Cookie Recipe

                                  

I stumbled across this recipe when my local Wegman's stopped carrying a crispy, flaky Italian cookie called Sfogliatelle or Millefoglie. (My guess via Google, sorry if I am butchering the name!)  At any rate, they seemed to be nothing more complex than puff pastry brushed with a sweetened glaze and baked.  When I discovered Puff Pastry in the frozen section of my grocery store, I came up with the following easy recipe.

Not only are they fairly quick and easy to whip up, they look very impressive to serve to surprise guests or with tea or coffee.  I do not actually measure my ingredients, so I will have to do that the next time I prepare them so I can update this recipe for those who prefer precise directions.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 egg whites
• Granulated (caster) sugar
• Cinnamon
• Pinch salt
• Vanilla and / or Almond extracts
• Sliced / slivered almonds
• Frozen Puff Pastry sheets

STEP 1: Combine egg whites, about 1/2 cup sugar, 1 Tblsp. cinnamon, 1 tsp. Vanilla or Almond extract (I use both, to total 2 tsp.), and a pinch of salt in a small bowl or ramekin.  With an electric beater, whip until it forms soft peaks.

STEP 2: Take pastry out of freezer (I recommend leaving it in until this step, otherwise it will quickly soften).  Break off 2 folds from one of the sheets, and lay out on a piece of parchment paper. 

 Use a pastry brush to brush your glaze mixture onto the sheets.

 STEP 3: This step is optional, depending upon how you like your almonds.  I briefly toasted mine in the oven, then used my fancy knife cutter thingy (official name, by the way) to chop the bits smaller.

STEP 4:  Again use your cutting tool, whatever it may be, to cut the strips into rectangles.  Transfer the parchment to a baking sheet.  Make sure the cookies are not touching each other, and sprinkle liberally with your almonds. 

STEP 5:  Bake in a 400 degree oven for 10-15 minutes.  You'll want to watch the first time to get an idea for how long, depending on your oven's peculiarities.  They should puff up and turn brown at the edges.  If you take them out too soon, they will flatten as they cool - not what we want, but still tasty.  You have my permission to eat any failures!

Enjoy!