Horses Playing with Slow Feed Treat Balls

I designed these treat dispensing toys after seeing the smaller hexagonal ones for sale for what I thought was a rather absurd price.  These are much larger, so can dispense more food and hay cubes as well.  As the horses became more and more adept at using them, I had to add a few things to make it harder, such as interior baffles and objects so they couldn't just roll all the food out at once.

One of the things I've found fascinating, is that the horses seem to love these, and will go to play with them rather than eating hay cubes scattered on the ground, readily available.  After reading up on things such as Dopamine release, clicker training and varied schedules of reinforcement, I believe something similar is at work here.  To paraphrase, it's sort of like a person at a slot machine... never knowing WHEN it will hit next is part of what keeps you pulling the lever.  There are many more studies and such around this behavior, which I may eventually link if there is enough interest.

First Winter Snow of 2022 on the Farm!

 We have snow!

Amazingly, after a day of weather in the mid 60s (that's 60 degrees Fahrenheit), we had a major snowstorm dump almost 14" of snow.  Here are some pics from yesterday and today...

They got boiled apples and oatmeal with their grain this morning, as the temperatures were down in the teens.  Here I am dragging a couple bales of hay down to the pasture on the sled.

Pimms was trying to take a nap, but then Atticus had to come beg for attention when I went to say hello.

The house actually looks quite adorable with soft snow everywhere and the warm light from the lamp post.

The sun was beautiful as it started to set on the snowy field with the horses eating their hay peacefully.

Atticus and Claire hoping for some grain or other tasty snacks.  And then as dusk was falling, it was time to go in by the fire for some hot cocoa!

Benefits of an overhead tree tie

Tie up High

I don't recall where I first got the idea... probably looking at something about tying horses to a highline for horse camping.  But after first using the overhead line (a rope strung between two trees, with a tie coming off it), I then found a nice big shade tree with an appropriate branch coming far enough out from the tree to tie the line to that.  The branch acts as a spring to take any force if the horse hits the end of the rope due to spooking or acting up. 

Similar to snubbing for despooking... lets a horse move it's feet, but cannot run away.  

Horse Tying Safety

If the horse actually throws a fit and rears and starts to fall, the branch actually acts as a spring to absorb to shock, and frequently bounces horse back to it's feet.  An important safety tip here... if the horse freaks out at something, just step back and let them sort it out for themselves.  Don't stand where you could get stepped on or tangled in the rope.  It's also always wise to have a knife handy in a few locations where you have livestock and ropes.... I knife can saw through a rope under tension quicker than anything can cut it.

Something that is more or less the same is known as a "Patience Pole".... not sure where the concept first came from, but it has the same advantages of any other overhead tie. The horse can safely stand tied without much risk of injury, even if they are dancing around with impatience or spooked by something.

Strange and Unique horse feed - updated

Odd Feeds for Horses

I have been reading up on some older, out of print books to find out what sorts of things horses have been fed in the past and in other countries.  I find this very interesting, as many of the things considered normal and proper have changed with scientific advances. Some things horses were fed in the past were necessary due to lack of “proper” feed, and were downright strange.  For example:

A still more stimulating food was sometimes provided for Indian horses in a meal of boiled mutton or goat's flesh . Marco Polo tells us that in Malabar they fed their horses on boiled meat and rice. In Cutch , before hard work , the old outlaw custom of giving the horse such food still prevails. (from Things Indian Being Discursive Notes on Various Subjects Connected with India By William Crooke · 1906)

The following is from Training and Horse Management in India With a Hindustanee Stable & Veterinary Vocabulary, and the Calcutta Turf Club Weights for Age and Class, By Matthew Horace Hayes · 1885

Rice.-- In some parts of India , especially in Eastern Bengal, rice in husk , commonly called paddy (Hind . Dhan) , is much used , after it has been kept for one season . It is given raw and in a broken state. It forms a fairly good food. A mixture of one part of gram to two of rice is an excellent one for feeding purposes. Rice, without the husk, is quite unsuitable for horses. [I found this very interesting, as I started feeding cooked parboiled rice to my elderly guy which really seemed to help him put on weight.  Not sure why he says ‘rice without the husk’ is unsuitable].  

Carrots and other roots contain but a small amount of nutriment compared to their bulk, hence they are inapplicable for forming a large proportion of the food of horses, which are called upon to do fast work. They supply the system with certain important salts , which tend to preserve the fluidity of the blood and to build up tissue. … They come into season during the autumn, and may, with great benefit, be given in quantities of 6 or 7 lbs. daily: 2 or 3 lbs. will be sufficient for race-horses. Parsnips are almost as good as carrots.

…Carrots also improve the state of the skin. They form a good substitute for grass, and an excellent alterative for horses out of condition. To sick and idle horses they render corn unnecessary. They are beneficial in all chronic diseases of the organs connected with breathing, and have a marked influence upon chronic cough and broken wind. They are serviceable in diseases of the skin.

Milk. For sick or delicate horses, milk is often most valuable, and they will seldom refuse it. Sweet skim-milk is preferable to new milk, which, from being too rich, is very apt to purge the horse [Give them diarrhea]. A couple of gallons may be given daily. To correct any tendency it might have to produce diarrhea, the milk might be brought to the boil in a clean vessel, care being taken that it be not smoked during the process . Sugar or salt may be added.

Another snippet, this one from John Lockwood Kipling, C. (1904). Beast and Man in India; A popular sketch of indian animals in their relations with the people. New York: The Macmillan Company.

 [The following discusses the desire of a stocky, draft-like build in naturally thin Indian horses] 

"But by rigorous confinement and careful stuffing with rich food even this condition is approached. Many horses belonging to persons of rank are fattened like fowls in France, by the grooms thrusting balls of food mixed with ghi, boiled goats' brains, and other rich messes down their throats. And, as might be expected, very many die of diseases of the digestion and liver under the process. The difference between East and West, between old and new, between feudal and free conditions, is shown in few things more clearly than in a comparison of the horse of the Indian Raja with the scientifically treated animal of Europe and America. The latter is carefully fed during the all-important period of its growth, so that its strength and substance are fully developed, while it is made to take regular exercise." (p.166)

Peaceful Winter Night Under the Cold Moon

 

The night is cold and brisk, yet peacefully silent.  The moon glows overhead, illuminating the bare winter landscape.  The air smells crisp, as if hinting at coming snow. A fox gives a curt, sharp cry to his mate down the farm lane, then silently disappears into the woods.  In the cloudless sky, the stars brilliantly sparkle with the promise of a bright new year to come.  

So proud of pony Wookie!

My little ornery pony has come a long way! Wookie is my 5 yr. old Friesian/ Welsh cross pony. (Yes, I know, it was an accidental breeding).  Last week, my young junior jockey neighbor Yomar first took him for a refresher ride in the western saddle (as it had been a few weeks since he was last ridden).

Then the following day, his father (Yomar Ortiz Sr., a professional jockey) accompanied him on Pimms for a bit of leg stretching.  This time, he rode Wookie bareback (as he is most comfortable), and managed to urge him into a canter of more than a few strides for the first time.  They did great, I was very proud of both Wookie and Pimms.

And finally, I decided to finally take Wookie on a trail ride.  He did wonderfully, never having had to carry and adult for so long, and even doing a couple nice canter stretches!  I am very pleased with my little guy.

Here are the videos of the younger and elder Ortiz riders.  Aren't they just adorable?!:

Hobble Training: Cruel or No?

I recently got into a discussion with a friend of mine regarding hobbling horses.  She is European and from a dressage background, and she was vehemently against it, saying it's cruel and breaks a horse's spirit.  I argued that while that is perhaps the old West, bronc-bustin' reputation of hobbling, it can be done in a perfectly safe and humane way, and can have many benefits.

The benefits I have found include:

• It's an excellent way of teaching a horse not to panic if it were to get caught up in wire, rope, vines or the like. (Just do a google search for "horse caught in wire" to see some horrific accidents)
• It enforces your leadership position and builds trust.
• It is necessary (or at least preferable) for some trick training. (Eg., placing a horse's foot up on a pedestal, bow or kneel, etc.)
• It desensitizes a horse's legs to being confined or stuck. It may be necessary for a medical procedure, and a horse taught to hobble will not panic when it is done.

One important thing I must point out, is that a horse must be TRAINED TO HOBBLE. Like the one-rein stop it is extremely dangerous unless the horse has been taught what it entails and how to properly respond.  You must teach the horse in a safe, gradual manner, so they understand what is happening and do not panic.

So now I would like to hear your opinion on hobbles... yes or no?

How to Teach a Horse to be Hobbled.

I will post another article shortly on the ethics of using hobbles to train horses, after getting into a big discussion about it with a friend of mine.  I personally think it's a great tool, so if you are interested in training a horse to hobble, this is a method I find safe.

First of all, the horse must know how to lead and have their feet handled calmly.  Mine were also accustomed to dragging a lead rope, and had figured out how to move their feet if standing on it and caught. Next, you want to set the horse up for success, meaning not super fresh (Lunge, ride, whatever first to get them a little tired). The ideal way to introduce hobbles is when they are hungry and you have fresh green grass they are eager to graze…. They are generally less likely to fight and more interested in staying put and eating.

The horse needs to have a halter and a long lead rope on, so you can guide them if necessary.  I only had one horse try to rear and fall to the side, and I was able to direct him with the lead rope to make sure he didn’t land on his head.  (That was his one outburst, luckily). You need a location with soft footing, but I didn’t like the idea of the round pen, as the horse can hop about quite a bit in the beginning, and wanted enough space to move with nothing they could hit, so I used an open field.

You want their front legs fairly close (i.e., horse standing square) when you put on the hobbles. Use very soft hobbles, generally either lined leather cuffs or thick cotton rope. After putting on the hobbles, stand back, keeping a hold on the lead rope, and being careful to stay to the side (and out of his path), should he launch forward. Some horses want to hop right into your space, so be ready to move out of the way! 

If your horse doesn’t move, apply light pressure to the lead rope, to encourage him to take a step. Again, be ready for the horse to attempt to leap into your space. Let your horse figure it out on his own, but keep hold of the lead line, so you can help keep him from getting in trouble, and to help him balance. (Be sure to keep the slack off the ground, so he doesn’t inadvertently get his front legs over it.)

Let the horse struggle with why his feet are caught and what to do about it.  They may struggle for a little while, try hopping around, etc.  One clever horse of mine promptly started sniffing the hobbles and nibbling, trying to figure out how to untie them! Eventually, the horse gets tired of fighting and will just stand.  Be sure to praise him verbally when he does this!

When he is finally totally relaxed and standing still, you can approach him, tell him what a great boy he is, and carefully take them off. I then encourage the horse to step forward to show he’s no longer restrained…. Many are hesitant to move at first.

Hobbling should be repeated here and there to remind the horse not to panic when trapped by the feet.  Like any training, you occasionally need a refresher!

Using a Donkey to Halter Break a Foal

Great method! I have tied a youngster to an older horse to lead them up and down the driveway a couple times, which works well.  This method here, however, is the old-fashioned way of teaching a youngster to lead well.  I like the article, as it explains exactly how they go about it to keep things safe. Click here to read the article:  Donkeys to Halter Break

What to do with all that hay twine?!

This time of year, everyone has piles of hay twine, that you have saved because you just know it will "come in handy" at some point.  So of course, the most obvious answer is... throw it out!  If you don't want a fire hazard or this... 

You can always find other crafty things to do with it!  I will no doubt update this post as time goes on with new and unique ideas. And I would absolutely welcome suggestions from any readers!

 But for now, here are some that I rather liked....

Crochet or braid it into:

• Rugs or mats (especially for entryways)
• weatherproof saddle pad
• lead rope (Use multiple strands to make it extra strong)
• halter or a bridle (Something I frequently crafted as a kid with a pony)

Use it to tie up baby trees that are leaning the wrong way.

Make a diy fly whisk with a bunch of twine and a stick.

Use it to "temporarily" fix broken gates and fencing, if you don't mind your place looking like the Clampetts live there! (We all know these temporary fixes seem to morph into permanent fixes, as other projects take priority).

Little Wookie is doing great!

I have decided I should find a good person to lease Wookie.  I think he really has the potential to be the perfect all-around little guy!  The last time we went out on the trails, he had no problem leading the way, and didn't seem the least bit spooky.

He is also stocky enough to carry many adults (myself included, of course).  As will all my youngsters, I will need someone who is experienced and a strong rider, so that he doesn't develop any bad habits, but I am sure the perfect person is out there... now I only need to find them!

Atticus and Eva jumping in the park

 A couple videos Eva's friend Gwen (riding Brandy) took of her and Atticus jumping the coop and log in the park.  It was a beautiful day for it!

Riding under a beautiful Magnolia tree

 

Posted by Orchard Creek Farm LLC on Monday, March 29, 2021

Horses begging for treats

 

Cute horse butts! Atticus is far right, and his two sons, Pimms and Wookie, are next to him. All mugging Eva for treats, I believe!

Posted by Orchard Creek Farm LLC on Tuesday, April 6, 2021

Happy Horses Grazing

 

Atticus, Pimms, Brandy, and Judge last week. Wookie out of frame. #horses #equestrian

Posted by Orchard Creek Farm LLC on Sunday, April 11, 2021

 

Various Horsekeeping Practices of Old

As I may have mentioned before, I have always been fascinated with reading old, out of print books to find out what sorts of things people in the past did when it comes to caring for and training horses.

I did this research in part, because I want to see what sort of progress we’ve made with new discoveries in science and animal behavior.  But also in part, because when horses were a daily necessity, I imagine there was general “common knowledge” of good practices that have since fallen by the wayside.  One would think they would have known a thing or two when the average person relied on horses on a daily basis. 

So, with that in mind, here are a few interesting things I have found from various old, out-of-date books. These are just various snippets, with my comments in brackets []. I will probably update this from time to time with new discoveries.

The following bits are from (Training and Horse Management in India With a Hindustanee Stable & Veterinary Vocabulary, and the Calcutta Turf Club Weights for Age and Class, By Matthew Horace Hayes · 1885)

Stables and Barns

Loose boxes should be, at least, 12 ft . by 16 ft. In India , 10 ft. by 12 ft . would be a minimum . The walls between the boxes should be made about 6 ft. high , so as to be just sufficient to prevent the animals smelling each other over them…

If possible, there should always be a space of a few inches all round, between the roof and the top of the outside walls [for proper ventilation].  The windows of a stable ought never to be shut by night or day; in cold weather , add to the clothing, but never deprive them of the first great source of vitality , “fresh air."

On all occasions, when the stables are empty, they should be thrown open for the admittance of sunlight, which is a powerful disinfectant.

At the entrance of the box or stall, for appearance sake, the bedding should be arranged in a straight line, which is finished off by a piece of plaited straw being stretched along it. [This part greatly amused me; imagine insisting a piece of braided straw was neatly arranged at the entrance for looks!]

Feeding Practices

Sheets may be used with advantage instead of mangers. They may be made of sacking (tat), and about a square yard in size. They are laid on the ground, and the grain is spread over them. They cost little, are easily cleaned , and can be packed up in a small compass. I always employed them with my own horses in India. (Training and Horse Management in India With a Hindustanee Stable & Veterinary Vocabulary, and the Calcutta Turf Club Weights for Age and Class, By Matthew Horace Hayes · 1885)

[I would like to note here that I have used a version of this, being a large tarp spread over damp or muddy ground, to feed hay and hay cubes in the winter.  It has the added advantage of de-spooking horses to tarps, to the point where many of mine will chase after a tarp and stomp all over it, looking for food.]

Useful Dry Erase Boards for Riders

I have designed a couple different dry erase boards to help around the barn and stable.  My most recent is this dressage test practice board. Perfect for drawing out your test repeatedly in order to memorize your steps.

I also made this Grooming Chart to track bathing, hoof treatments, and the like. So you can see your productive horse time, even if you aren't riding.

And finally, so far the most popular board, is this Horse Care and Feed Chart. I hope you find them very useful!

Cavaletti Plans and Sketches

I was going through my "horse training" files on my computer and stumbled across this... some ideas and plans to build cavaletti.

The concrete molds are of course meant to be boxed frames into which one would pour concrete to create as many pole holders as necessary.  I haven't really tried this one out, but concrete is both cheap and heavy enough to make a nice stand, I would think.  If you have tried any of these or have additional ideas, I would love for you to comment!

Barn Hacks and Tips

Use shower scrubby gloves to clean tack! 

Gets the soap more sudsy and really helps scrub off those sweat spots that hold dirt. Also, no more dropping your damp sponge in the dirt! (Or is it just me that does this?)

Use Pink Lotion made for ethnic hair types as a detangler.

This stuff works much better than any of the silicone-based products out there, and is much healthier for manes and tails anyway. I haven't yet figured out what it is that makes this work so well, but it may be that it has a higher lanolin content than other stuff. At any rate, it works a treat!

A ski suit keeps hay off you!

If you live in a cold climate, you know how hay loves to cling to fleece fabrics.  A ski suit over everything sheds hay and dust pretty well, and it keeps your regular clothes pretty clean! I hate having to change clothing repeatedly from running out to do chores. 

Also along these lines, one of my favorite tools is one I actually got because I had long-haired shepherds....

A dog dryer has many uses!  

This little thing, although pricey, has a lot of power for it's size.  I have used it to blow the dust and hay off myself before coming into the house, to blow the dirt out of saddle pads and rugs, and also to blow the dust and dirt off my horse before clipping when I wasn't able to bathe first.

Note: the one in the link above I purchased almost 10 years ago and it is still going strong!  It lives on my porch just inside the door.

Farm Layout Tips for Planning New Farm

Although I am not actually planning or buying a new farm, recently the following things occurred to me as I was walking around and thinking about what I like and don't like about my current set up.

1. Perimeter road: If you have the acreage, plan to leave room for a lane or road so you can drive a truck or tractor all the way around your pastures.  This was originally for easy fence checking and maintenance, but it's also useful if you have an injured or downed horse at the far end of the pasture you need to get to.  And I wound up adding fencing to the actually perimeter of my property and a couple gates, so I can turn the horses out onto the grassy "lane" area to graze at times.  Oh yes, and I also put up some jumps around this area, which works great!

You can see a rough idea in the illustration to the left. If you can zoom in, you can see both the space around the pastures and little lines to indicate the jumps.  The white rectangular section is my dressage arena.

2. Barn close to house: I know this isn't always practical or advisable, but I noticed the convenience when my older horse Judge was injured and stalled. The master bedroom is on that side of the house, and the house and barn are only separated by the farm lane / driveway.  We could hear if he was thumping around in his stall, or coughing. Of course, the downside was, when we were worried it interfered with sleep because we were listening for him.  I think this was more an accidental, "It's a good thing...." and not sure how one could plan for it.  Maybe use a baby monitor instead?

The other advantage, is when I was also sick and had to treat him 3 times a day carrying hot water from the house, it wasn't very far.  Which reminds me of something I don't have, but everyone should.... 

3. Hot water in barn! So many times this is needed.... mixing medicine for drenches, making a hot mash, soaking a hoof abscess, etc.

4. Pasture easily visible from house for injured / sick horse, where we can easily monitor looking out the window. For me, this is my front field. I think it has actually saved my older guy a few times when I was able to glance out (you can see from the kitchen window where we do dishes and such) and see he was coughing or lame. Otherwise I wouldn't have noticed until feeding time.

4. Round pen! This wasn't a requirement on my original list when I bought the farm, but I am very glad I have one.  Aside from being a great tool to work youngsters or exercise horses that haven't quite gotten the hang of the lunge line, it's the perfect place to turn out an injured horse without confining them to a tiny stall.  Of course, this only works for a sensible horse... if you have one that tears around like a nutjob, it isn't ideal.  But where my round pen is located, the horse can see all the others and not feel quite so isolated.

I also found that my round pen was the perfect "foaling stall" when I had pregnant mares.  I added small hole poly hardware cloth to the inside with zip ties to prevent a foal from getting a leg stuck between bars, and a 3 sided shelter made from one of those hut garage kits.  I didn't like the idea of a mare foaling in one of my stalls, imagining her squishing the baby between her and the walls and other such horrors.  This actually worked really well.

5. Sacrifice Area: I am about to create a new one so the horse that can no longer eat hay can be down with the others.  Basically, a place you can put all the horses if you are spraying or liming your pastures, if it is crazy muddy or wet and you don't want them tearing up the fields, if you need to collect manure for analysis or testing, so on and so forth.

Plan so that the horses have easy access to shelter and water here.  This is my diagram of how I placed my run-in sheds with an eye to being able to separate the fields and create a dry lot / sacrifice area: 

I would love to hear ideas and thoughts from others on this list!  Please add a comment below!